For larger problems, Round-up (TM) herbicides may be the only solution. The best time to do this is in the Fall, just prior to overseeding your lawn. Please contact your turf specialist for more information on renovating your lawn with Roundup (TM) herbicide. The key for any grassy weed is prevention.

Virginia Buttonweed is a spreading, perennial herb common in the South. Though technically an herb, and not a weed, it is still an undesirable in your turf. Their leaves are elliptical (oval) to lance-shaped and produce white, tubular flowers. Virginia Buttonweed reproduces by seeds, roots, or stem fragments.

Virginia Buttonweed will "overtake" your lawn if left unchecked. Mowing will not retard the spreading of Virginia Buttonweed because of reproduction by the root system. In fact, mowing may aid in the spread by reproduction of the stem fragments. For small problems, the most effective solution is to dig it out. Take care to remove all the roots.

For large-scale invasions, use of herbicides may be necessary. Using herbicides may cause temporary burn spots on your resident turf in the affected areas. After 2-3 applications you will see marked progress in controlling Virginia Buttonweed. Patience is the key to controlling this weed.

Chickweed is a winter annual weed and a familiar site to Arkansas. It is recognizable by its white flowers in small clusters at the ends of its stems. The good news is Superior Lawn Services can control Chickweed with its spraying program.

Chickweed is mat-forming with numerous branched stems. The leaves are opposite, smooth, oval to broadly elliptic in shape. Chickweed's upper leaves are sparsely hairy with long petiole. The stems have vertical lines of hairs. Flowers appear in small clusters at the ends of stems. They are white with five deeply notched petals. This plant reproduces by seed. The best way to control this weed is by a routine spraying program provided by Superior Lawn Services

Crabgrass

Crabgrass is a "warm season " annual, grassy weed. Annual weeds grow from a seed, become a plant, and die in one season (these are the easiest to control). Crabgrass is tufted in appearance with hairy leaves. A seed head will form. It normally germinates in April. It emerges in late summer due to the pre-emergent wearing off. Because over-seeding usually takes place in September and October, the perfect application of pre-emergent wears off in August to allow for reseeding in September.

The best means of controlling Crabgrass is by applying 2 applications of pre-emergent herbicide, which Superior Lawn includes in their normal full service. A pre-emergent won't kill the Crabgrass that has already sprouted; it only keeps the Crabgrass seeds from germinating. Superior Lawn Services discourages Spring seeding, because if you seed in the Spring, we are not able to apply pre-emergent to help aid in the control of Crabgrass.

Dallis Grass

Dallis grass is a clumpy, grassy weed common in the South. This is the problem grass you see "pop up" the day after mowing. This grassy weed is sometimes confused with crabgrass. Crabgrass is an annual and can be controlled with the use of a pre-emergent herbicide, whereas Dallis grass is a perennial and cannot be controlled with a preemergent. Dallis grass reproduces through seeds and rhizomes (underground creeping stems), so controlling this weed by mowing will not stop further invasion in your lawn.

Dallis grass can "overtake" your lawn if left unchecked.

Fescue (As a Weed)

Fescue is not commonly thought of as a weed. But if you see a clump of Fescue coming up in the middle of your Bermuda or Zoysia turf, we doubt you would see it as anything except a weed. Even though you may have had new sod laid recently, Fescue seeds, as well as many other weeds seeds are blowing in the wind. One of your neighbors may have a Fescue lawn.

Although having grass in your grass is not a major disaster, it can certainly become an annoying nuisance. Preventing Fescue from gaining a foothold is the best plan of action. Any small problems should be dug out immediately, taking care to remove all roots.
For larger problems, herbicides may be the only solution. However, when dealing with a grassy weed, herbicides will also affect your resident turf. If you feel herbicides are needed, call us to schedule a consultation with your turf specialist. The key for any grassy weed is prevention.

Purple or Yellow Nutsedge

Purple Nutsedge is the most "common" member of the Nutsedge family in the South. Yellow Nutsedge and Green Kyllinga are two other Nutsedge found in the South, though not as frequently. Nutsedge is a very difficult weed to control. They are perennial, grassy weeds and spread aggressively through their seeds, rhizomes (under creeping stems), or nuts (tubers). The underground "nuts" can lie dormant for several years, requiring an active vigil over previously treated areas.

Small "invasions" can be effectively combated by digging out the offending Nutsedge. There is also a product available called "Manage" that can suppress Nutsedge in situations with large populations. This product applied in late Spring or early Summer will selectively control the Nutsedge after it has emerged from dormancy. In bad infestations a follow-up treatment of "Manage" may be needed later in summer for controlling potential re-growth.

As you can see this product works to suppress sedge activity during the growing seasons and is not a one-time complete kill product. If you wish to schedule this extra treatment, please call our office.

Poa Annua (Annual Blue Grass)

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Poa Annua, also called annual blue grass, is an annual, clumpy, grassy weed common to the South. The leaf blade is smooth on both surfaces and the tip is boat shaped. A light green to whitish seed head appears in April.

Annual blue grass reproduces by seed, which germinates in September and October, but is not usually noticed as a problem until February or March.

The main control is pre-emergent herbicide, which is applied to all "warm season " grasses such as Bermuda or Zoysia in September and October. Pre-emergents keep seeds from germinating. If you are a new customer and your lawn did not receive the September-October application, this is the reason you are seeing it. Our best suggestion is to live with the problem through the Spring, as it will die out in the hot weather. We will control the problem for next Spring by treating your lawn this Fall.

Wild Garlic and Wild Onions

(Although Wild Onions are not mentioned in the text below, the same set of problems and solutions would apply.)

Wild Garlic is a "cool season" perennial weed common in the South. Although it is a close relative to the types cultivated in your garden, Wild Garlic is very undesirable when it starts appearing in your turf. Wild Garlic has slender, hollow, tubular leaves and will produce small, greenish- white flowers. You will recognize Wild Garlic by the distinctive garlic aroma when you crush a bulb. Wild Garlic reproduces by seeds, aerial bulbils, and through their underground, tuberous root system.

This perennial will appear in the early Spring and late Fall and it is hard to completely eradicate, unless you dig it all out. For small problems, this is the best solution. You must take care to remove all the roots and bulbs.

For larger infestations, there are herbicides available. However, because the Wild Garlic has a tough outer-casing on its leaves, herbicides have a difficult time sticking to them. Herbicides will damage, control, and reduce Wild Garlic, but will not eradicate. Wild Garlic should be dug out whenever possible, and if caught at first appearance, will not become a major problem.

Wild Violets

Wild violets are an extremely attractive "weed". Because wild violets are so attractive, they are seldom classified as a weed. They have a broad, heart-shaped leaf and produce deep blue or purple flowers. Wild violets reproduce from seeds or rhizomes (underground creeping stems). They are beautiful when they are kept in the garden, but can become a problem if they escape into your turf.

Wild violets are a warm weather weed and you will most likely see them first appear in late Spring or early Summer. For small problems the best solution is to dig the violets out. Applying herbicides will burn the tops off, but the heartiness of the underground tubers will allow for regeneration.

Large-scale invasion of wild violets is a difficult or impossible problem. Violets are not a susceptible to herbicides as most other broadleaf weeds, and in most cases, will need to be dug out. Remember, eradication is the watchword with wild violets.